24APRIL2016 @ Billings, MT

Midnight found me in Billings switching busses.  As we motored west I was aware that we stopped at Livingston and Belgrade ... then the "BUTTE" announcement woke me completely.  At 534AM I entered the Butte bus depot, positioned my red forest-fighter backpack behind a chair and started hoofing down Harrison Avenue.  At interstate 15/90 I met a gentleman who took me to Boulder and a "Children's Home" couple carried me to Helena.  By 930AM I was enjoying the company and coffee of Steve ... a super friend.  He and I went to Jim's, grabbed a ladder and got me in the house.  I had not carried a key and Felomina was in South Carolina, so the ladder was the house key and worked well ... just slide in a second floor window - so easy to say.  At 8PM I met the bus (the one that I was ticketed to ride), gathered my backpack and was home.  House heat, no wind and my own bed meant that I barely saw 9PM. 

23APRIL2016 @ Intake, MT

Once again I was up early, before sunrise this time.  I strolled the campground looking for a better site, then bumped into the irrigation employee, Tim.  He gave me a lift (1.5 miles) to highway 16 where I attempted to hitch a ride to Glendive.  I stood there with my paddle in hand and got nothing.  I did, however, note how extremely difficult it was to raise my arm.  My arm being my motor ... and very bad weather being tonight and Sunday ... I concluded that the trip this year is over.  Three fishers turned in and took me back to the boat ramp where I began picking out the bus-trip gear and setting the leave-it gear aside.  I headed out at 1000 intent upon knocking on every door and explaining my need for a ride to Glendive.  At the second door, that of William Payett, I hit paydirt.  By 1500 my canoe and gear was at Willie's and I was in Glendive.  The Trailstar Truck Stop is a must visit place for paddlers ... not far off the river and showers for $5.00.  I'm showered and ready.  At 940PM I boarded the bus ... at Miles City I bought supper and near midnight we pulled in at Billings.  Looking ahead, I will drive out next Thursday to retrieve the gear.  That will allow me to stay Thursday night at Forsyth, Friday and Saturday nights in my tent at Tobacco Gardens and Sunday night once again at Forsyth.  This allows me to be at the Tobacco Gardens Resort for the opening-of-the-season party ... starts at 10AM Saturday ... come on by!       

22APRIL2016 near Glendive, MT

My Heavens what a night!!  Ridiculously strong winds hammered the tent for several hours .. then about midnight just stopped.  I choose to not relate all that I tried to alleviate the problem but THE ONE THAT WORKED was take off the tarp and open all the windows.  Just let the wind come on through .. it wasn't cold, so ... that actually worked.  The tarp went back on when the wind stopped, more to shield me from the moonlight ... true scoop, moonlight! Sleep was good and by 0930 I was at Glendive.  The first bridge is for trains ... the second is for pedestrians and at the west end is a  motel.  How convenient and something to remember.  The 11 miles melted away and - it appearing that I will easily get to the Intake Dam - I opted for a righteous lunch at Madhatters.  Getting back on the river I was surprised to paddle on with no wind ... it even began feeling hot.  The river has no boulders and it all just slips by smooth and steady.  Trees are still in the winter look but soon that will change.  As I approached the dam I had two very difficult passages, each being when headed east and getting past a head wind.  "Past" is indeed the word for as soon as I rounded the bend the wind stopped ... totally stopped.  At about 5PM I reached the dam.  To my great surprise the dam is a pile of rocks.  I expected a Toston Dam type structure.  Truth is that a skilled boatsman could paddle through this dam, but I opted for the portage.  Two fishers put aside their activities and lent a hand and things were looking good when I hurt my arm.  Something happened while removing the canoe from atop their truck and my reaction was to push up with my right - and I felt it immediately.  Down to the gravel the boat went and I got nauseous.  Something ripped in my arm.  I took off my shirt and the arm's appearance brought a "Ewww" from the helpers ... very disfigured arm.  So they went home and I set about with fine-tuning a campsite.  The right side is a party site ... where there are no pet rules ... where there are no quiet hours ... where my bedsite would be on gravel.  After 30 minutes or so of this futility, I left-armed my gear into the canoe and paddled across to the state camping area.  Before dark I was set up on concrete and feeling as good as possible.      

21APRIL2016 @ Terry, MT

At Terry is the Badlands Café ... owned and operated by Lori Church.  They bake the bread that they serve.  They make coffee with real water, not that heavily sulfated Eastern Montana water that we tolerated back in the old days.  I did not ask, but it would appear that they slaughter and prepare the bacon.  At the very least they buy really great bacon.  The Badlands Café adds to a super wonderful Prairie town.  The home of Evelyn Cameron, the site of (probably) the oldest basketball court in Montana and a short walk to/from the river ... what's not to like?  I love Terry ... and ummm ... please do not take that out of context.  But back to the river.  Sunday 1 to 3 inches of rain is forecast and Saturday the wind is to be excessive ... so-o-o-o-o I plan to get to the Intake Dam Friday night.  More on this later, for now is the time to go.  Now this is later ... and go I did.  I pitched my tent 11 miles from Glendive - said the 2nd and 3rd people that I spoke with all day.  So I paddled about 30 miles from Terry and it was divine.  Into a headwind, yes, but no problem after the first mile.  During the first mile I was making my way against a wind that was creating foam lines.  For the rest of the day the wind was less or non-existent ... so, no foam lines, no problems.  Also no rocks ... or more correctly stated, a greatly diminished rock scene.  Terry to Glendive - a great river for floating and being lazy.   Several miles below Fallon I stopped and helloed with an agate gatherer.  He showed me an amazing agate ... big and shiny.  He was excited, saying it's the best he's found in years.  GDP predominated the day ... that's "Geese, Ducks, Pelicans".  I heard beavers after I was bedded down.  Three Bald Eagle pairs were seen ... and no Osprey.  After setting up camp I sat on a gravel bank, sipping tea and munching nuts ... waiting for the moonrise.  The moon rose without me - by that time I was looking over the inside of my eyelids. 

20APRIL2016 @ Shirley, MT

Today there was no wind.  I paddled 20 miles through sun, occasional shade and temperatures near 70.  I chose the short walk into Terry for a real meal and was drawn into the Kempton hotel.  In the 1980s I spent many nights at the Kempton, so I opted from a trip down memory lane and checked in.  They arranged a ride back to my canoe for my toiletries, medicine and change of clothes and by 5PM had consumed a steak and regroceried.  By 7PM I had showered and by midnight I was again awake and posting this log. Today was the second day headed northeast.  This direction is desirable as the late day the sun id behind and affects my skin less.  I'm well covered except for face, hands and feet but my lower lip is blistered.  During the Columbus-Billings days I did not locate the chapstick and my blistered lip has not yet healed, so  having the sun behind me is wonderful.  For the four days until I reach the confluence this direction of travel will continue.  Walking toward Terry I passed a snake.  Geese, Ducks Pelicans and Bald Eagles were seen also ... Osprey and Eagles are diminishing.  The riverine geology continues to surprise me.  There are far more rocks to paddle around than I ever expected.  On one occasion I got too close to a rough passage.  I was able to pull alongside a dirt cliff, facing backward.  After determining the route I rotated into the current, hit the gap and bounced through.  This spot was a river wide shelf that has broken into boulders; several of these were passed today.

19APRIL2016 @ Miles City, MT

The manager of the CENEX station asked how I was doing so I told him.  He found the trip interesting and gifted me the coffee.  I took it back through the rain, weather.commed it and ascertained that the rain would end about 10AM.  At about 10 I was at the water plant and pushed off shortly thereafter.  It rained twice - lightly - in the first few miles  then the clouds began thinning.  It never got clear but the sun came through about 20%.  The headwind was overcome by the current and the miles began disappearing.  Rocks, rocks and more rocks.  God loves rocks and put many in the Yellowstone River downstream from Miles City.  After about ten miles I encountered a rock garden that was a half mile long.  That commanded my attention; I was barely able to snap a good-to-see-you-wave at two sportsmen on the shore.  I saw a coyote, geese, ducks, pelicans and whitetail deer today.  Trees continue to be in winter mode, though a bit of spring fuzz is beginning.  Cliffs are gone and badlands are here.  Many banks are steep and impossible to climb.  I've even entered an unusual river bank scene, one with benign slopes on both sides.  This does not occur continuously , but that it happens at all is unusual.  Irrigation pumps are running and water is flowing back into the river.  I'm guessing that the flumes and canals are being flushed.  The result is a light chocolate color hugging each bank for miles.  Well before dark I pulled over and set up.  This was done early in order to assure that any wet bedding was dried before dark.  The pads were damp but the bags dry.  Supper of salted nuts, a date/almond/cherry bar and grape juice set me for the night ... and the wind stopped.

18APRIL2016 @ Miles City, MT

Today the canoe will not move.  The weather is a type of rain that hangs in the air, gets everything wet yet seems to not be falling.  Of course it is falling but folks are working outside ... getting damp while getting it done.  I'm quite happy staying inside this day.  I've moved away from the Olive Hotel.  This is a decision that I made with a heavy heart owing to my long-time association with this business.  While I could delve into the details, I think it serves no purpose other than to live one's life at a low level.  I've rejected the notion of suggesting that folks avoid the Olive Hotel in favor of suggesting that they (the owners and staff) would be better served by us travelers showering them with kindness.  It is unreasonable to expect graciousness and magnanimousness when faced with a bedbug (or whatever vermin it is/was).  I think that they will not like to see me again, but I'm only one person.  To all you others, I suggest that you make your own decision.  In transit to the second motel I was aided by the Badlands Taxi.  The gentleman is very amenable and the Badlands Taxi (406-234-1414) should be called as one approaches Miles City.  A ride in from the water plant area is well worth it ... and it is the only taxi business in Miles City.