16APRIL2012 @ Chamberlain, SD - Rob Brown helped me move my gear down to the river. On the way we shared a serious breakfast at an interstate cafe and he read David Miller's book segment about the American Creek Campground. At the river both of us were amazed to see that the beach where the canoe was tethered had completely disappeared. In it's place were sharp rip rap rock ... and the canoe was rocking back and forth on them. It was also pitched at an angle and filled with water. All the gear was still there. Untying and pulling it down the beach I was pleased to note that it was not damaged. Repacking took some time and I pushed off at possibly 0830 ... and into a stiff breeze impeding me at 75% from the right. I made my way around the 1st bend after about an hour and - awesome - the wind direction was catching me at 25%. I rounded the next bend fairly quickly and passed the White River delta and mudflats under a diminished wind situation and then made the big turn to the right. At this point the wind was directly behind and was strong. I made the eight miles to Elm Creek Boat Ramp in about an hour, concluded that such wind should not be wasted and pushed off thinking I could make the Highway 44 bridge today. Well, the wind diminished and by the time I was headed east, still 9 miles from the bridge, it stopped ... and an east (head) wind slowly began building. On my left were cattle grounds with a significant aroma, and that after crossing a muddy beach with a shallow, muddy lake approach. I chose to paddle on to the cliffs ... but it was dark by the time I reached them. At least the smell of the cedar was pleasant. It being dark already, I chose to paddle on to the bridge, figuring setting up a camp in the dark was less desireable than sleeping at a lighted campsite or even a porch. Good plan - poor reality. While the wind was not consistent, it definitely slowed my progress and the 4 miles seemed to take forever. When a rare vehicle crossed the bridge, I lamented how far it (always) seemed to be. Eventually, though, I saw the bridge and in about a minute my eyes were stabbed by the flash of a mercury vapor (?) light and I turned in, tethered up, transported my sleeping gear up the hill and pronounced this day completed. In addition to gorgeous country today I saw ducks, gees and pelicans.
A bit upstream from the Elm Creek Boat Ramp I stopped along the right bank as I experienced something unique ... a smell as if I was surrounded by folks striking matches. I figure the exposed cut banks - newly exposed by 2011's extremly high water - contain sulphur and phosphorus and whatever else is used in the manufacturing of matches ... and the smell is noticeable. The banks have an interesting yellow with black streaks look ... picture mint chip ice cream, only yellow. Where it is neither, the yellow has become beige.
Today I paddled from river mile 966 to mile 921, a distance of 45 miles. It is midnight, I am far colder than I expected - shivering uncontrollably - and am happy to be bedding down alongside the bait/beer/propane store. Oh-h-h yes, hello-o-o-o sleep.