5JUNE2012 @ Helena, AR - My lower lip stung severely several times during the night but curiously this morning feels much better.  Of course staying indoors will cause healing, perhaps fairly soon.
After a sumptous breakfast I packed my gear, put it in the foyer, returned my key and walked downtown.  City clerk Sandi Ramsey was happy to see me and I was happy to see her.  In 2009 I had met Sandi, told her about the canoe trip and jokingly asked if I would get the keys to the city upon completion.  Without hesitation she assured me that I would and that the city would put me up in a bed and breakfast for a couple of nights and deliver me to the Memphis airport.  Since then it has crossed my mind that her assurances were made with the feeling/expectation that it would not be fulfilled, therefore was an empty promise.  No, I am not suggesting that Ms. Ramsey is not a sincere person, rather that some promises can be made without expecting to be put in a position of backing them up.  This could easily be such a promise; I mean how likely is it that I would actually canoe 2,730 miles?  So, on our way to newspaperman Randy Hogan, I mentioned our 2009 conversation.  She remembered every bit of it, assuring me that the Helena tourism budget would cover my last two night's lodging, that she would arrange a ride to Memphis (or the Clarksdale bus station) and that when I return in November the mayor's presentation of the keys to the city will be fully arranged.   I am enthralled with Sandi Ramsey; it is wonderful to share the world with such a person.
Lunch at Granny Dee's was equally wonderful.  Told that the nearest restaurant is Mexican at the south end of Cherry Street, I sauntered down, enjoying the various second hand, antique, art and music stores.  At the Arkansas state museum - for real ... in Helena - I learned about Granny Dee's and was happy to head out for what was described as "Soul Food".  To the FRITS among us this is simply called "food".  No problem the syntax, granny and several younger family members welcomed me and in an hour or so I headed back down the street having enjoyed cornbread, black-eyed peas, chicken, mashed potatoes, and bread pudding.  Bread pudding is not too special you say?  Try it at Granny Dee's before you lock in that statement.
Devontae Herred is a high school student who also plays on the local football team.  I saw Devontae running up the side of the levee, walking back down, running back up, walking back down, etc.   Then he ran the length of Cherry Street, turned and ran back.  I expect he ran the leveee several times after that and then ran Cherry Street.  It's June 5th and this young man is out getting sweaty and staying ready to play.  I think his is a name to remember -- such dedication is exemplary. 
You should peruse the stores mentioned above.  I saw two huge steel eagles like the one I have for years appreciated in a certain Helena (MT) backyard.  I saw some river leaning delta art that I may purchase in November.  I enjoyed the Arkansas state museum, dedicated to the Helena music and art scene.  I met one of the gentlemen who has been with the King Buiscuit music scene from it's beginning.  The story goes that an insightful radio operative recognized the special nature of the Helena area music ... this back in the 1950s.  It being predominately black performers performing for a predominately black audience, he knew that - at least initially - any radio presentation would need to draw in that black audience.   The story goes that he approached a local merchant with the magic question "What product do you have that curiously is not being purchased by our black citizens?"  The answer was King Biscuit Flour and thus was born the King Biscuit Music radio show.  From this radio show a profusion of blues, soul, gospel and rockabilly music has poured - and still pours.  Few places in our vast nation nurture a vibrant local music scene ... think Hawaii for another.   In Helena I regularly heard local music - it is everywhere - it is soothing and reassuring in it's own strange way.  By that I mean consider how songs about sadness, struggle and hard times can be reassuring ... come to Helena and you will understand.     
If Helena is not enough for you, go over to Clarksdale.  Doug Friedlander carried me to the bus station there and drove me past the various notable businesses.  The home of Morgan Freeman, the Clarksdale scene is as rich and vibrant as in Helena.  Hey folks, what's not to like around here?
In Memphis I boarded a full bus headed for Birmingham.  Knowing it would be full I discussed an amiable seating arrangement with a lady who was not big (my main criterion) and who might want to sit beside someone who is not dirty ... and that, Tiger fans, would be me.  It worked out and I arrived in Birmingham near midnight.